KotiChef

Common, Durum, and Ancient Wheats#

When you pick up a bag of flour at the store, you're most likely buying common wheat (Triticum aestivum), the world's most widely grown wheat variety. This versatile grain produces the all-purpose, bread, and cake flours that fill our pantry shelves.

Durum wheat (Triticum durum) is an entirely different species with unique properties. You've encountered it most often as semolina flour, the golden-colored ingredient behind properly textured pasta. Durum is exceptionally high in protein, but it forms a less elastic gluten than common wheat, making it perfect for pasta's firm bite but less suitable for lofty bread loaves.

Semolina also has a practical application beyond pasta-making. Many bakers use it for dusting pizza peels, baking sheets, or proofing baskets. Unlike regular flour, semolina withstands higher temperatures without burning, preventing that bitter, scorched taste that can develop on the bottom of breads and pizzas. Its coarser texture also creates a barrier that helps prevent sticking without being absorbed into the dough.

Beyond these everyday options, ancient wheat varieties offer interesting alternatives:

• Spelt - A distant cousin of modern wheat with a nutty flavor and more water-soluble gluten that creates a different texture in baked goods

• Einkorn - The oldest wheat variety with a sweet flavor but weak gluten structure

• Emmer (Farro) - Rich in protein with a robust flavor, often used in rustic breads

Understanding wheat types helps you choose the right flour for specific uses. For authentic pasta, reach for durum semolina. For pizza-making, consider dusting your peel with semolina to prevent sticking and avoid burnt flavors. And if you're looking to explore new flavors or potential digestibility benefits, ancient wheats can add distinctive character to your baking—though they typically absorb water differently and require recipe adjustments.

Hard vs. Soft Wheat: The Texture Determiners#

Common wheat is further divided into "hard" and "soft" varieties, which directly impacts your baking results.

Hard wheat has a higher protein content (typically 11-15%) and produces a stronger gluten network. This creates the structure needed for:

• Chewy artisan breads with good volume

• Sturdy pizza crusts that can hold toppings

• Bagels with that distinctive chew

Soft wheat has lower protein content (typically 8-11%) and forms a more delicate gluten network, perfect for:

• Tender cakes that melt in your mouth

• Flaky, tender pie crusts

• Light, soft cookies and pastries

Understanding hard versus soft wheat helps you choose the right flour for your desired texture. Bread flour comes from hard wheat, while cake and pastry flours come from soft wheat. All-purpose flour is typically a blend of both.